Day 18 - Villarreal de Mazarife to Astorga

A strenuous day today. It is getting very hot again and there is no breeze. I am getting lots of miles done but it really hurts for the first couple of hours every day. My calf muscles are really big now and tighten up until I have gone through the pain barrier and out the other side,(about 8 or 9 miles), apparently the only way to fix this is to have three days rest or massage the muscles at night and before you start in the morning. I can't be bothered with the former and I keep forgetting to do the latter. It is great when the legs suddenly free up and away you go - like taking the handbrake off.
The scenery is very green now and I am entering into the mountains again. In a couple of days I reach the highest point on the Camino; Cruz de Ferro; at 1505m (4940 ft) and then I enter Galicia; the last and greenest of the Spanish regions on the Camino.
I am entering the area of fish, game and fruit. That means shops full of hanging hams, chorizo, cheeses, fish and chocolate. Apparently Astorga is famous for its chocolate production. Sorry Wendy, I can't bring you any home as it is too heavy, but I have eaten some and it is very good! (serves you right for eating all my Greek soft nougat!)
Loads of large green lizards now; they are very fast, so difficult to photograph but I have caught a few of the smaller ones warming in the sun, by the time you hear the big ones there is just a green flash and they are gone.

It is my son's birthday today; Happy Birthday Richard, wherever you are. If you are having half as much fun as me...
....then I am having twice as much fun as you!

Some photos for you.
Green fields, a railway track with no barriers on the Camino, some lizards, a huge water tower, a medieval bridge at the lovely village called Hospital de Orbigo, a bizarre mannequin by a cross and a lovely man called David who gives free drinks to pilgrims. (He was very popular today after the long, hot, uphill stretch to Astorga.) also some of the amazing buildings in Astorga (I am on the one behind the pilgrim statue)

Day 17 - Part two

After Léon I walked to Villa de Mazarife going through La Virgen del Camino on the way. Not worth stopping as a very tired, scruffy suburb of Léon. Just after this point the scenery changed again to become quite like the New Forest. Some nice little pueblos (villages) again and an old chap moving his cows from one field to another. Another pair of abandoned boots.
I stopped for an ice cold coke as it is up in the high thirties again and was given some tapas free as it was a quiet time. That is all I have had to eat today as you don't eat until 7:30 or 8:00 pm and the shops are all shut most of the time (when you are hungry!)
Am staying at a quiet little albergue with about 50 bunk beds in one room but there are only about 15 of us here at the moment so not too bad. I am meeting more people now as I am travelling faster than most and waking with new groups.

Day 17 - Mansilla de las Mulas to Léon then Mazarife - Part 1

A very early start this morning due partly for my desire to see the milky way in these light pollution free skies and also the very noisy snoring of a couple near me! It is only eleven miles into Léon and usually the entry and exit to the larger cities is not pleasant on the eyes. (or nose). Once you get onto the old city you are rewarded with some spectacular architecture and a well maintained, clean atmosphere. It is very trendy in some areas but also maintains its medieval heritage. The cathedral is spectacular as was the one in Burgos. It was once a Roman military garrison and base for the 7th legion (the name Léon comes from legion) there is also heritage from the Visigoths, the Moors and later Christian forces. Gaudi's "Casa de Botines" building is also impressive.
There was a fruit and veg market by the cathedral this morning; very colourful.

Day 16 - San Nicolàs to Mansilla de las Mulas

I had a great time last night. In the end there were just four of us at the lovely little place in San Nicolàs. The older American woman, me and a lovely young couple also from the States. Mark and Maria have been married for four years but they have only recently finished university. They have just moved to Arizona, got new jobs and then both taken a month off before they start work to walk the Camino (from Pamplona)
So, another early start (about 6 am) as I planned to do a long walk today. I left the Palencia region early this morning and am now in the region of Léon. I chose an alternative route today to walk alongside one of the longest sections of original Roman road in Europe. The only problem with Roman roads is that they are a bit straight!
About 20 miles straight; with a newly planted identical tree every 20 feet. I took lots of photos but they all look the same. I have just added up the mileage for today and it is 48.5 kms (just over 30 miles) my longest ever in one day.
Although this is day 16 of my blog I have just completed day 19 of my guide book, so I am 3 days ahead of schedule. I have now walked 289 miles! That is eleven marathons (Snickers?) in 16 days.
I need some new clothes as my shirts are falling apart due to my rucksack rubbing and my shorts are now too big. My Salomon walking shoes are doing great though.
Tomorrow I will be in Léon which is the biggest city that I encounter. I plan to see the sights, maybe get some new clothes and then visit La Virgen del Camino (if she is in!); that's the next town after Léon. I have just discovered that tomorrow starts the Festival of St Juan and Saturday is the day when they do the bull run (like in Pamplona) It would be good to see that but unless you want to join in it is difficult to get a good viewing position.
I don't really like staying in the big cities as it is a bit hectic and you have to share a room with 70 or more smelly pilgrims.
I managed to get onto a real computer today and have rewritten some of the code on my web page so I can now reply to your comments more easily so bring it on!

So here are today's photos (in no particular order as I have still not sussed that out.)
We have a chicken on a bell (chickens are very popular here in architecture; google "San Domingo Chicken") a sunrise, José and his wife (guess which one is José), a distance marker, a big yellow arrow, a Roman road and some wheat.
Also a very old, simple church where I arrived at the same time as the priest; he gave me a personal pilgrims blessing, a glass of water and wished me "buen camino, pelegrino"

Day 15 - Carriõn de Los Condes to San Nicolás

That sweet, warm smell of bread baking as you amble past the church as the sun comes up.
The sound of a hundred skylarks overhead as you walk by the golden wheat blowing in the wind.
The warmth of the blood flowing as the stiffness in your legs eases off and you lengthen your stride.
The pleasure you get with the friendly wave and smile of the old lady dressed in black leaning on her garden gate as you go by.

These are a few of my favourite things!

I've come over all Julie Andrews (nearly typed that wrong!)

I write all my own stuff you know; can you tell?

So, I had a great nights sleep, feeling very relaxed and refreshed after my bath last evening. An early start today even though I could have had a lie-in. A couple of people I met last night were starting at 4am today because this part of Northern Spain has so little light pollution that the night skies are amazing; I may try it myself soon.
While I was going off to sleep last night my mind went off somewhere on its own and I got to thinking not only how far I would walk but also how many steps I would take. If I walk a thousand kilometres and my pace length is 66 centimetres then I will take 1,515,151 steps (over one and a half million!)
And so far I have only had one small blister and that has gone; not bad eh?

The first 18 kms today was in a straight line, walking into a strong breeze. Nowhere to stop for breakfast this morning so I bought a cherry yoghurt an apple and a sticky pastry last night to feed myself. Forgetting that I didn't have a spoon I had to eat my yoghurt with my toothbrush! Mmmm minty.
Well, what would you use?
Eventually I stopped for a coffee late morning and met Sue, an American lady who started with her older brother in St Jean. He had to go home when they got to Burgos as he was suffering with a lot of pain. Sue has bravely decided to walk on by herself.
I have stopped early today in a lovely little pueblo called San Nicolás. It is a family run hostel with 16 beds in 4 rooms. I hope it stays quiet as at present there are only two of us here.
Today I passed the halfway mark to Santiago so it is all downhill from here (although a lot of it is actually uphill!)
Many of the buildings in this area are made of mud and straw, most are of the traditional rectangular house shape but some look like Hobbit dwellings. Also the area has strong links with the Knights Templar.
Some photos of a bridge over the river, the long straight Sendé, a baby snake I rescued off the path, the open fields, hobbit houses, clay and straw houses and my accommodation for the night.
Also two old blokes chatting; which one is called José?

Siesta time now....
zzzzzz.

Day 14 - Itero de la Vega to Carriōn de Los Condes

I finished off the Meseta by about 08:30 today. Below is a photo of the Canal Pisuerga which is at the edge of the Meseta and has opened up the area to intensive farming for grain and vegetables. Suddenly everything is green again. When I read my guide book back to me after walking I remember things that happened during the day. Although I am constantly looking around my mind is so relaxed that it is hard to remember what I saw; yet alone where I stayed last night (which is usually what people ask you.)
Today was a long, straight, boring walk alongside a main road. This type of track is called the "senda", a soulless, manmade gravel track which usually runs dead straight for miles and miles. Nature is slowly taking it back but it is not as good as previous days walking.

I am writing this blog on the bog while my bath is running. Yes, my first bath for weeks! Before I left, I made notes from forums on the web for special places to stay or visit. One of them is the Hostel Santiago in Carriõn de los Condes. It is a couple of steps above where I normally stay and I have a private room with my own ensuite and a bath. This is what pilgrims dream of, although it is costing me the small fortune of 22 euros including washing all my clothes and breakfast (providing breakfast, not washing it!) they even provide towels and a couple of little bars of white chocolate, (ugh, soap).
So, now lying back in the bath with a long glass of freshly squeezed orange juice, some salted almonds and cashews and the juiciest peach you ever saw. Fan-bloody-tastic! I deserve this.
After checking the guide I realise that I have walked over 365 kms (about 230 miles) so far. By the end of tomorrow that will be halfway to Santiago.
One on the photos below shocked me as I walked into Carriōn as it says 463 km to Santiago; but that is by road. I am walking in almost a straight line and it removes 50 km.
Also a couple of photos to show the Meseta has ended, the canal, the senda, a couple of other pilgrims (one moving slowly on six legs and one not at all!)
Also my evening fuel.
Love to all, Ian