Day 5 - Puente la Reina to Estella - The sights and smells of the camino

First I must say a big thank you to you all for your comments on the blog. I receive the comments as emails when I check my mail at least once a day on the free wi-fi (or wee-fee as they call it here) along the way. It means a lot, not only for the support but also so that I know that someone is actually reading the stuff that I write; I have not written a blog or diary before.
Anyway, back to the sights and smells. All very pleasant (well mostly). 

This morning started off very humid and I had some light rain even though it was sunny and hot at 7 o'clock in the morning. The heavy, sweet smell of the broom (Wendy may correct me, picture of a sample on my hat below) is wonderful after the overnight smell of pilgrims feet. You turn a corner and next it is rosemary or sage or another scented plant who's name I know not. Also the cherries, plums and almonds are ripening nicely. Everything is so vivid in colour and smell, especially when there is a dark thundery sky and then the sun shines on me, some pictures below. The sky cleared after about 10:00 and the rest of the day has been hot.
Enough of the poetry.

A funny thing happened on the way to Santiago today...
As I stopped for breakfast in Ciraqui (as you do!) a Canadian or American woman came in and asked if she could have gâteau. The local chap at the bar was confused and asked her to explain. She repeated (louder and miming) that she wanted to eat gâteau for breakfast. Those of you who know some Spanish may see where this is going. Apparently the Spanish word for cat is gato. He pointed at the cat near the counter where the cakes etc were and she nodded excitedly. She was soon dispatched under many Spanish (or Basque) expletives.

 
There are many examples of graffiti which inform us that we are not in Spain but in the Basque Country. The people here are very patriotic to a region and culture (and language) that most of the world does not recognise or understand.

Various pictures below of my breakfast, some great vistas, a huge map of the world made of old car tyres in a field and my dodgy thumb which has started to go back to a healthier colour but now has no sense of touch.

As I sit typing this I can hear thunder rumbling off in the distance and a cuckoo calling, how bizarre is that?

Well, it is off to bed now. I have paid an extra 3 euros for a room to myself tonight so hope to get a good night's sleep without the nocturnal sounds and smells of other pilgrims. I am staying in a youth hostel that was built for housing Olympic athletes back whenever Spain held the event, around 1920 judging by the state of the building.
The low rolling thunder and tired body is better than any sleeping tablet, if only I could bottle it.

ps. Wendy; tomorrow is green bin day.

Nite nite all.

Day 4 - Cizur Menor to Puente la Reina - Tilting at windmills

Today I feel a bit like Don Quixote with his battle against the windmills; there are hundreds of them. OK they are a bit more hi-tech than his but they keep on appearing over the horizon.
I walked for about an hour and a half before finding breakfast. A simple meal of cafe con leche and choc au pain (whatever that is in Spanish; you know, the yummy croissant that is full of chocolate)

Another hour and I am ascending to the top of the last of the Pyrenees mountains. There is a magnificent flat iron sculpture of medieval pilgrims with heads bent into the wind. (Photo below)....
As I stop for a long draught of water after the ascent I meet again with Paul and Gina. (We have lost the German at last; but not for ever I am sure)
A bit later on Paul and I took a longer detour to visit the 12th century church at Eunate; supposedly one of the jewels of the Camino. It was a very old and significant place of worship but I am not sure if it was worth the extra miles. Gina takes the short route as she is still suffering.
Some great scenery with mountains in the background and wonderful fields and flowers; the poppies here are abundant and blood red.

 
A brief conversation with another pelegrino (pilgrim) yesterday:
Him - "what time is it?"
Me - "Why?"
Him - "Good point!"

After about 23 kms we reach Puente la Reina (the Queen's Bridge) the first thing I notice is a 100 ft high tower with a massive nest on top with a pair of storks. There is another nest on the main church. A special Sunday service is just finishing and everyone is parading in their finery. The young girls on their confirmation dresses like miniature brides. The church has a strong smell of incense but they start closing the doors just after we arrive. Maybe they can detect the smell of pilgrim over the incense!
The hostel tonight is on top of a hill ; as usual; and we struggle up it with the promise of a swimming pool. On arrival the advertised pool has no water; damn. We have to settle for a beer instead. This single beer at the end of a hot, tiring day is magical. It always tastes better in the sun when you still have the dust and sweat on your brow.
We decide to walk back down the hill to the town for the evening meal. A good meal but it means another climb to return and get a good night's sleep.

Breaking news!

Thank you all for your concern on my bowels. No more fear about "touching cloth" or the "tortoise is poking his head out"
Congratulations are in order on the birth of a healthy, bouncing 8 pounder. The father is doing well.
I missed my update yesterday so will publish days 4 and 5 soon. Have just finished walking for the day so off for a shower, wash clothes etc.