Day 24 - Ventas de Narón to Ribadiso

Although today was only about 42 kms (only; he says!) it was physically quite tough. 40 kms or 25 miles a day is about average now and although there are big hills they are not as big as they have been. I think my body is just getting tired now; not unsurprisingly.
This morning was a bit depressing as the same minibus kept overtaking me and just as I was arriving in a town or at a cafe it would stop and twenty Americans would get out and get all the good seats or create a queue in front of me. I shouldn't moan but I am bloody going to!
They all start asking each other "how many stamps have you got today? I've got three!" ......Idiots. So they collect their credencial stamps and get back on the bus.

So, about eleven o'clock this morning it started raining. Hurray; that will give the yanks something to moan about.
For me it made a nice change, the air nice and crisp and walking a pleasure. It felt a lot like Cornwall - raining and lots of granite. Also it made everything green and shiny. The fields and trees are spectacular again. They introduced the Eucalyptus tree here many years ago and there are huge forests of them; really big specimens. It looked a bit weird at first when you see one or two trees but when there are hundreds of tall ones arranged in neat rows they are majestic.
I came through Palas de Rei this morning which used to be an important town approaching Santiago; apparently most of its heritage is now lost.
After Palas de Rei I entered dense woodland where it rained off and on and in the distance was a major thunderstorm; I like walking in the woods, and I like thunderstorms. But which one is best. Only one way to find out - ask Harry Hill.
In the woods I came across an unmanned stall with bananas, peaches, raspberries and some wrapped portions of home made cake. There was some fruit juice in bottles and an invitation to help yourself and make a donation if you wish. I took some freshly squeezed orange juice and a portion of the best raspberries I have ever had. Mmm, raspberries and orange juice in the woods and the rain.

I also walked through Melide, an administrative town, famous for its pulpo (cooked octopus) there was a wedding here and I met a group of fourteen pensioners from Yorkshire walking the Camino. They were very pleased to meet me and all the old ladies wanted to "feel the muscles on my lovely brown legs", I didn't fancy the octopus or the old dears so I legged it!
Below are some photos of-
Cows and trees.
A dead poodle.
A wedding.
Good and bad graffiti.
A medieval bridge.
My accommodation for the night, I am in one of two private rooms in a separate building to the main albergue; very quiet and neat.

Tomorrow Santiago is only 25 miles away. I will probably walk 20 miles and stay at the big albergue on Monte Gozo which overlooks the city. On Monday morning I can the do the last bit and book into a hotel and view the city at leisure.

Day 23 - Aguiada to Ventas de Narón

The place I stayed last night was probably one of the best of the whole trip. The albergue was run by a lovely German couple. He used to be a flight attendant (trolley wally; sorry Kerry) based in London working for Lufthansa and she is a trained chef; so they know how to give great service and food. We all sat on tables arranged in a horseshoe facing inwards. Great food and the best wine so far. A good nights sleep and breakfast was thrown in (luckily I am a good catch)

This morning I was on the lookout for the start of the newbie pilgrims. As soon as I approached Sarria they appeared; with their new clothes and gear. Actually many looked a bit lost and scared, as I expect I was when I first started! Most are Spanish but also a lot of Irish and Americans; it is a long way for the yanks to come for just a few days walking. The release of the film "The Way" has had a dramatic influence on Americans wanting to get involved; let's hope they don't release it in China! There are lots of Koreans and Japanese here already.

Most of the Irish are women, walking in groups, I met six of them this morning and they were all very excited; asking me loads of questions. For some reason they were all wearing white? They may regret that as you get very dusty and usually have to hand wash in cold water.
The camino is different now, not just the people; there is more rubbish and scruffy graffiti on every flat surface. Even the buildings are different- lots of grey granite and slate- gone is the stucco and terracotta.
I have mentioned the impact on the senses over the past weeks. The sights, sounds and tastes. Now it is the smell!
Remember the dong from the cows? Well now it is the dung! Cows are everywhere and so is their shite, you can taste it!
The last couple of hours today has not been as bad so I hope it improves.
I walked around Sarria for a bit this morning as it as waking up. It is a medieval city with Celtic origins with many churches and monasteries. It is also built halfway up a steep hill. Not too steep for us hardened walkers but tough on the new kids. The next city was Portomarin; on the widest river so far. As I got to the town centre and looked for a bar for my morning coffee and snack it started raining! The first rain I have seen in a month. As soon as I bought a lightweight umbrella for 4 euros it stopped again and has been fine all day. I have decided to ditch my walking pole and use the umbrella instead (as insurance against it raining again). Apparently it always rains walking through Galicia so if that is all I get then I will be pleased.
Another long day today and I now have less than 50 miles remaining to Santiago. I am not sure if I will walk on to Finisterre or go by bus? I will see how I feel. It may depend on when I can get my return ferry booked. (originally booked for 16th July but I am well ahead of schedule)

Some photos of - various things.