Back to reality - with a thump!

At last I am at home.
A decent bath, a decent bed and a good nights sleep without being kicked out of my bed at 07:00 in the morning. No queuing for the showers or the smell of pilgrims in the morning. It all sounds lovely.....
I suggested to Wendy that while she showers and gets dressed I will walk down to the local bakers and get some croissants and fresh bread to have with our coffee.
This is where it all started to go a bit wrong.... For a start it was raining, only slightly,so I got the brolly out and walked down to the village.
When I got to the local bakers there was a family ordering burgers,ice cream and cans of coke, for breakfast,at 0900 in the morning! I waited patiently in the queue looking for the croissants, none to be seen, just doughnuts covered in sugar and icing. I asked for a couple of crusty baguettes to take away. "Sorry sir, we don't sell just bread on its own; you have to choose a filling."
I have been using what used to be called the Village Bakery for twenty years; not any more!
I was reduced to going to the local supermarket to get a French crusty loaf! Poor show.

I try to shrug it off and maintain my cool, relaxed mode..... I wonder how long it will be before I snap?

So, I sit here in the almost dark, with the rain falling steadily and just feel happy that I am home at last to the great British Summer!

At least Wendy cut the grass yesterday.

On my way home

I was lucky to get a bed for my last night in Spain. I tried several pensions and hotels but everywhere was full.
I returned to the albergue where I stayed last as a last resort as it was a bit grim. You are allowed to stay more than one night if you are waiting for the ferry but the dragon of a hospitalero wanted to disagree. She just kept saying no, even though there were only half the beds taken. Luckily a couple of German girls with good Spanish interpreted for me and help plead my case. Reluctantly the dragon said "Si".

An Italian girl was thrown out of the albergue at about 10:00pm because something was wrong with her hair? I don't know where she slept and it rained in the night!

On a happier note I met two lovely people who came together on the camino. He is Austrian and cycling and she is Norwegian and walking. Somehow they have been travelling together for the past week, I think they make a lovely couple and hope everything works out for them. We went for breakfast together this morning to chill after the dragon at the albergue wound us all up again this morning. I am sorry I did not get their names but "thank you for the breakfast, buen camino and good luck to you both."

Fingers crossed that the weather is not too bad on the ferry, I hope to get on board in a couple of hours. I will be able to have a shave and a decent shower and put clean clothes on for the return journey to normality.

Waiting for the ferry

I arrived safe in Santander last night and spent the night in the local albergue. There is another camino that passes through here along the northern coast "Camino del Nortê", for a brief moment I thought I may start from here and head back to Santiago. It was only a brief moment and soon passed!

My ferry is not until 15:00 tomorrow (Thursday) They kick you out of the albergue by 08:00 so I need to entertain myself until 16:00 when I can check in again for the last night. I have looked at posher accommodation for the night but cheapest is about 50 euros and I am a poor pilgrim after all.
I have found a left luggage box at the bus station so I don't have to carry my backpack around all day. So I am sitting at a table in the bus station eating a chocolate croissant and drinking cafe con leche while writing my blog on the free wee-fee.
Not sure what to do today? A bit of sight-seeing, lie in the park, eat some good food to put some weight back on? Who knows- as they say here; the world is your lobster!

Enjoy your days, see you soon.

Ian

Day 26 - continued

Something that happened yesterday was an important moment for me and I forgot to mention it in the blog (not that even 1% of what happens gets on the blog!)
It was yesterday morning after I had stopped in Arzua for a morning coffee and suddenly about 50 school children appeared, walking the Camino. At first I cringed a bit (like with the Americans on the bus) but then I realised that they were just happy, healthy people going on a walk; with a common purpose. They were good fun and made the effort to talk to me. That was when I realised that I was the the unusual one who had decided to do something extreme, challenging and quite frankly stupid! I met a group of ten Irish boys aged around 15 or 16 who were having a whale of a time. They were singing and blowing green plastic trumpets. They asked me where I was from and where I started. When I told them one lad said I must be a "feckin eejit" for walking all that way. "why did you not catch a plane like us!" he mused.
After that moment I was happier with my fellow new pilgrims; each of us walking our own Camino.

Back to today.
Instead of starting the day with a café con leché I had the famous Galician chocolate drink (so thick that the spoon stands up) and churros (like long thin donuts)..... fabulous.

After that I returned to the cathedral and did the tour (special rate for pilgrims) this is an incredible building. It is so big that you cannot see all of it at once. Each aspect is different, parts of it have been built over different times of the last 1000 years. It has been extended, redesigned and in some places rebuilt due to fire and damage.
I have visited the cathedral three times now and each part of it releases some of its secrets each time. Because there are high windows all around some sections will be in the dark at times of the day and their glory illuminated at others. The museum houses some amazing pieces of tapestry, iconography, paintings, relics, statues etc etc

I then walked around some of the parks and lanes of the old city. It was very quiet this morning. Maybe the revelry of last night kept them all in bed. It is a beautiful place and not spoilt by tourism or modernism.

After lunch I popped down to the bus station and investigated visiting Finisterre tomorrow but there is only one early trip there and it returns late. I will make this journey another time, maybe on foot. I have my ferry booked to return from Santander on Thursday afternoon and also booked a train leaving Santiago early tomorrow morning to Palencia. From there I catch another to Santander. Some of this trip will be the reverse of my journey here (but hopefully a bit quicker)
I have felt a bit "spaced-out" today. Partly because I forgot to take my medication last night but mostly just a bit disoriented as there is no master plan now. No routine, no yellow arrows to follow, no deciding where to stop for the night.

So, why did I do the Camino? Would I do it again? What would I do differently?
All good questions.

I did it because I could. I am lucky to have the time, the good health and the support of my lovely wife. Not many people have these things. It had to be a challenge. It had to be different - because that is who I am (challenging and different?)

Would I do it again?
Not the same Camino; because it would not be challenging or different. I will certainly be looking for my next crazy venture. My eldest son has just offered to do the Wayfarers Walk with me sometime.

What would I do differently?
I would probably not plan so much. There is a saying here "the Camino will provide" a good mantra for life in general. Let things happen as they happen.
Otherwise I would probably do it exactly the same way. I have met some amazing people, been to some wonderful places and experienced things that you cannot do unless you just do them.

I wasn't sure what I wanted when I started my Camino. I now know that I want to be at home with my family, my health and my experiences.
(Until the next time.......)

A few photos from yesterday
Sign graffiti
Some good advice for me
I said goodbye to my umbrella
The Irish kids
The Spanish kids
A knackered pilgrim (who made it today)
More advise for me.

Day 26 - A day to recover, discover and reflect.

The celebrations from the major, long term event that finished yesterday went on long into the night. Of course I am talking about the Spanish winning the football. Cars honked their horns, fireworks exploded, there was singing, and vuvuzelas, trumpets and drums played into the early hours.

Santiago is a beautiful, old city and I was lucky enough to see it at its best last night. All the bars, restaurants and squares were full of happy, colourful people enjoying themselves.

Today I will do the sightseeing thing, gather my thoughts and try to finally answer the question that everyone asks; "So why are you doing the camino?"

Today I can go where I want, do what I want and even eat what I want. Until now the choice of food has been limited to what is on the Pilgrim Menu; wholesome, good food but limited. So will it be lobster, pulpo? (octopus) or the fantastic hams? The pastries and chocolates look incredible. Decisions, decisions....

My whole body really aches today; it must know that it can finally rest and recover. I think I will find a nice corner to sit with a coffee and watch the world go by.

Day 25 - Santiago night.

Well, I have had a beer (two actually) and had a fine meal.
Then I went to mass in the cathedral; quite an experience actually. Everyone was asked to turn around and shake the hand of any pilgrim they saw. (we are quite conspicuous apparently). There were not that many of us as most attend the morning mass; so with my sunburned features and pilgrim smell I must have stuck out like a sore thumb (or toe). Everyone around me was smiling, shaking my hand and patting me on the back. Not what I expected when I sneaked into the majestic cathedral like a mouse.

I popped down into the crypt to see the silver casket holding the remains of Saint James. Not sure if you were allowed to take photos but as I was about the only one still there I did anyway. I think everyone rushed out of the service to watch the footie! (Spain have just gone 2-0 up)
I have many thoughts and questions going on in my mind but it is difficult to concentrate when you are so physically exhausted.......and the football is on. So I will sleep on it and tomorrow will compose the intelligent, witty and poignant prose that you have all come to expect.

A few photos to tide you over. including one of my compostela with my name - all in Latin.
(Make that 3-0, you can hear the cheering across the city)
No sooner than I type this it is 4-0.
I think there will be a good feeling all over Spain tomorrow.

Day 25 - Ribadiso to Santiago.

It's official.
I am in Santiago de Compostela.
Only just arrived - got my compostela, booked my hotel for two nights, had a shower. Next I need to have a beer, find somewhere to eat and watch the football. Apparently there is a big match on tonight!

Full update later....cannot make full sentences......need beer!

Day 24 - Ventas de Narón to Ribadiso

Although today was only about 42 kms (only; he says!) it was physically quite tough. 40 kms or 25 miles a day is about average now and although there are big hills they are not as big as they have been. I think my body is just getting tired now; not unsurprisingly.
This morning was a bit depressing as the same minibus kept overtaking me and just as I was arriving in a town or at a cafe it would stop and twenty Americans would get out and get all the good seats or create a queue in front of me. I shouldn't moan but I am bloody going to!
They all start asking each other "how many stamps have you got today? I've got three!" ......Idiots. So they collect their credencial stamps and get back on the bus.

So, about eleven o'clock this morning it started raining. Hurray; that will give the yanks something to moan about.
For me it made a nice change, the air nice and crisp and walking a pleasure. It felt a lot like Cornwall - raining and lots of granite. Also it made everything green and shiny. The fields and trees are spectacular again. They introduced the Eucalyptus tree here many years ago and there are huge forests of them; really big specimens. It looked a bit weird at first when you see one or two trees but when there are hundreds of tall ones arranged in neat rows they are majestic.
I came through Palas de Rei this morning which used to be an important town approaching Santiago; apparently most of its heritage is now lost.
After Palas de Rei I entered dense woodland where it rained off and on and in the distance was a major thunderstorm; I like walking in the woods, and I like thunderstorms. But which one is best. Only one way to find out - ask Harry Hill.
In the woods I came across an unmanned stall with bananas, peaches, raspberries and some wrapped portions of home made cake. There was some fruit juice in bottles and an invitation to help yourself and make a donation if you wish. I took some freshly squeezed orange juice and a portion of the best raspberries I have ever had. Mmm, raspberries and orange juice in the woods and the rain.

I also walked through Melide, an administrative town, famous for its pulpo (cooked octopus) there was a wedding here and I met a group of fourteen pensioners from Yorkshire walking the Camino. They were very pleased to meet me and all the old ladies wanted to "feel the muscles on my lovely brown legs", I didn't fancy the octopus or the old dears so I legged it!
Below are some photos of-
Cows and trees.
A dead poodle.
A wedding.
Good and bad graffiti.
A medieval bridge.
My accommodation for the night, I am in one of two private rooms in a separate building to the main albergue; very quiet and neat.

Tomorrow Santiago is only 25 miles away. I will probably walk 20 miles and stay at the big albergue on Monte Gozo which overlooks the city. On Monday morning I can the do the last bit and book into a hotel and view the city at leisure.

Day 23 - Aguiada to Ventas de Narón

The place I stayed last night was probably one of the best of the whole trip. The albergue was run by a lovely German couple. He used to be a flight attendant (trolley wally; sorry Kerry) based in London working for Lufthansa and she is a trained chef; so they know how to give great service and food. We all sat on tables arranged in a horseshoe facing inwards. Great food and the best wine so far. A good nights sleep and breakfast was thrown in (luckily I am a good catch)

This morning I was on the lookout for the start of the newbie pilgrims. As soon as I approached Sarria they appeared; with their new clothes and gear. Actually many looked a bit lost and scared, as I expect I was when I first started! Most are Spanish but also a lot of Irish and Americans; it is a long way for the yanks to come for just a few days walking. The release of the film "The Way" has had a dramatic influence on Americans wanting to get involved; let's hope they don't release it in China! There are lots of Koreans and Japanese here already.

Most of the Irish are women, walking in groups, I met six of them this morning and they were all very excited; asking me loads of questions. For some reason they were all wearing white? They may regret that as you get very dusty and usually have to hand wash in cold water.
The camino is different now, not just the people; there is more rubbish and scruffy graffiti on every flat surface. Even the buildings are different- lots of grey granite and slate- gone is the stucco and terracotta.
I have mentioned the impact on the senses over the past weeks. The sights, sounds and tastes. Now it is the smell!
Remember the dong from the cows? Well now it is the dung! Cows are everywhere and so is their shite, you can taste it!
The last couple of hours today has not been as bad so I hope it improves.
I walked around Sarria for a bit this morning as it as waking up. It is a medieval city with Celtic origins with many churches and monasteries. It is also built halfway up a steep hill. Not too steep for us hardened walkers but tough on the new kids. The next city was Portomarin; on the widest river so far. As I got to the town centre and looked for a bar for my morning coffee and snack it started raining! The first rain I have seen in a month. As soon as I bought a lightweight umbrella for 4 euros it stopped again and has been fine all day. I have decided to ditch my walking pole and use the umbrella instead (as insurance against it raining again). Apparently it always rains walking through Galicia so if that is all I get then I will be pleased.
Another long day today and I now have less than 50 miles remaining to Santiago. I am not sure if I will walk on to Finisterre or go by bus? I will see how I feel. It may depend on when I can get my return ferry booked. (originally booked for 16th July but I am well ahead of schedule)

Some photos of - various things.

Day 22 in the jungle - La Faba to Aguiada

Yesterday I had a shortish but very strenuous day heading upwards towards O'Cebreiro. I had 5 kms at the start of today to get to the top; it was tough! Normally I have a problem with my legs for the first couple of hours each day, the steep climb just made it worse. I did not read my guide thoroughly and assumed it would all downhill after O'Cebreiro. I was wrong. Every time I turned a corner it went down a bit then up again for another hour. After Alto de Poio it was definitely down and I started pumping the miles out. I can go in a straight line or downhill all day at 4 mph now (or 6 kms/ hour)
Beautiful weather for walking today; cooler and a nice breeze. I took some photos from the top looking down over Galicia (pronounced Galithia in Thpanish) and we were above the cloud line, very unusual as the hills appear as islands.
As one enters Galicia there is a countdown marker to Santiago every kilometre; starting at 155 kms. It gives a real feeling that I am getting closer as they tick away. The latest one I saw today was K117 (117 kms is 73 miles)
Before I knew it (actually it was about 11:30) I was in Triacastella. Which is Spanish for three pints of Stella. Or three castles as they say over here. Guess how many castles there are in Triacastella now?
3? 2? 1?    None actually. They have all gone! No, I don't know why. Google it if you need to know.
The limestone quarries nearby are where the limestone came from to build the huge cathedral in Santiago.

So, as it was still very early then onwards I go with about 25 kms under my belt. Three pints of Stella was my target for the day and the end of the next stage is Sarria, this is where all the Spanish start who want to do the bare minimum to qualify for the compostela (certificate).
Around 28% of all people start from Sarria and only have to walk 100 kms and not the 800 odd that us real pilgrims do!
Not that we are bitter or treat them differently, as they walk really short days of about 15 kms and get in the queues early and take our beds! And most of them get their backpacks (or suitcases!) carried for them by taxi!
No we are not bitter!
Anyway, I made a note in my guidebook to stop at a smashing little albergue called Paloma and Leña in San Mamed del Camino (about 3.5 kms before Sarria) So I can put off until tomorrow for the onslaught of the hordes.
A lovely place tonight; they welcome you with a tea or coffee of your choice and insist you have a relaxing shower before you check in. (probably wise when you have just walked 45 kms!)
Everything here is clean, relaxing and tasteful - even the other pilgrims! I don't know how they do that?
Also they have chickens roaming free.

I forgot to mention that I had to go to Hospital again today - don't panic - it was the name of a village where there used to be a pilgrim hospital.
Photos below.

Some photos....
Buenas nochas amigos.