Thursday, 28 June 2012

Day 22 in the jungle - La Faba to Aguiada

Yesterday I had a shortish but very strenuous day heading upwards towards O'Cebreiro. I had 5 kms at the start of today to get to the top; it was tough! Normally I have a problem with my legs for the first couple of hours each day, the steep climb just made it worse. I did not read my guide thoroughly and assumed it would all downhill after O'Cebreiro. I was wrong. Every time I turned a corner it went down a bit then up again for another hour. After Alto de Poio it was definitely down and I started pumping the miles out. I can go in a straight line or downhill all day at 4 mph now (or 6 kms/ hour)
Beautiful weather for walking today; cooler and a nice breeze. I took some photos from the top looking down over Galicia (pronounced Galithia in Thpanish) and we were above the cloud line, very unusual as the hills appear as islands.
As one enters Galicia there is a countdown marker to Santiago every kilometre; starting at 155 kms. It gives a real feeling that I am getting closer as they tick away. The latest one I saw today was K117 (117 kms is 73 miles)
Before I knew it (actually it was about 11:30) I was in Triacastella. Which is Spanish for three pints of Stella. Or three castles as they say over here. Guess how many castles there are in Triacastella now?
3? 2? 1?    None actually. They have all gone! No, I don't know why. Google it if you need to know.
The limestone quarries nearby are where the limestone came from to build the huge cathedral in Santiago.

So, as it was still very early then onwards I go with about 25 kms under my belt. Three pints of Stella was my target for the day and the end of the next stage is Sarria, this is where all the Spanish start who want to do the bare minimum to qualify for the compostela (certificate).
Around 28% of all people start from Sarria and only have to walk 100 kms and not the 800 odd that us real pilgrims do!
Not that we are bitter or treat them differently, as they walk really short days of about 15 kms and get in the queues early and take our beds! And most of them get their backpacks (or suitcases!) carried for them by taxi!
No we are not bitter!
Anyway, I made a note in my guidebook to stop at a smashing little albergue called Paloma and Leña in San Mamed del Camino (about 3.5 kms before Sarria) So I can put off until tomorrow for the onslaught of the hordes.
A lovely place tonight; they welcome you with a tea or coffee of your choice and insist you have a relaxing shower before you check in. (probably wise when you have just walked 45 kms!)
Everything here is clean, relaxing and tasteful - even the other pilgrims! I don't know how they do that?
Also they have chickens roaming free.

I forgot to mention that I had to go to Hospital again today - don't panic - it was the name of a village where there used to be a pilgrim hospital.
Photos below.

Some photos....
Buenas nochas amigos.

1 comment:

  1. Triacastella ....Hmmmm.....googled and found loads of 70's pic of small cigars (Try a Castella?)

    No sign of Stella (perhaps she fell behind), but plenty of San Migs.

    Counting down those kms...

    Denv Ralph

    ReplyDelete