Day 6 - part two - Estella to Los Arcos

After visiting the free wine font early this morning (however good wine is, especially if it is free, it doesn't seem right to drink it when you can still taste the toothpaste in your mouth) maybe I am getting fussy. Well it was about 07:30.
I walked alone all day today knowing that Paul was somewhere behind me but we lost Gina yesterday. Her feet are causing her a lot of trouble. (and for many others - strapped and bandaged feet are quite common for some.) We believe she is ok somewhere on the Camino and hope to see her soon My own are in great shape- "listen to your feet; then listen to the birds"
Wonderful scenery again. Now entering olive and grape country. We are still in Navarra region but tomorrow we enter Rioja country and the capital; Logroño.
I eventually decided where I would stop walking for the day. Los Arcos is a small town with an incredible church.
About 70% of the inside is covered in gold. A couple of photos below; how did they do this 600 years ago?
Stefan the German has caught up today and seems to be a bit calmer. We also met Mary the Croatian singer and ukulele player (she is travelling with a chap who is her manager but calls himself her pimp)
There were 14 of us sat around the table in the square (from 12 different nations; Dutch, English, German, Croatian, Spanish, French, Irish, Canadian, American, Swiss, Italian and Belgian. (Mary was originally from Australia.) I am still the only Brit I have met.
As we sat in the square having a coffee, beer or sangria she played and sang for us. Everyone in the town stopped to listen and applauded when she stopped. I will try and upload some video soon. It was very special, even when Stefan accompanied to Louis Armstrong's "what a wonderful world"

Some photos of walking, my lunch, my pilgrims dinner, the church, a grocery delivery though a tight space, some goats and even St James who Santiago is named after.

Day 6 - Estella to somewhere (part one)

Remember when you were young ...
and you got up very early in the summer holidays...
and you sneaked out of the house before your parents were awake...
and you went over the fields to your special place...
you just lie on your back and look up at the swallows in the blue sky...
and the grass tickles your leg...
and you worry about nothing, because there is nothing to worry about...
...you eat a biscuit that you find in your pocket and then you wonder if you should do something else or just lie in the sun....

That is what I did this morning.

Day 5 - Puente la Reina to Estella - The sights and smells of the camino

First I must say a big thank you to you all for your comments on the blog. I receive the comments as emails when I check my mail at least once a day on the free wi-fi (or wee-fee as they call it here) along the way. It means a lot, not only for the support but also so that I know that someone is actually reading the stuff that I write; I have not written a blog or diary before.
Anyway, back to the sights and smells. All very pleasant (well mostly). 

This morning started off very humid and I had some light rain even though it was sunny and hot at 7 o'clock in the morning. The heavy, sweet smell of the broom (Wendy may correct me, picture of a sample on my hat below) is wonderful after the overnight smell of pilgrims feet. You turn a corner and next it is rosemary or sage or another scented plant who's name I know not. Also the cherries, plums and almonds are ripening nicely. Everything is so vivid in colour and smell, especially when there is a dark thundery sky and then the sun shines on me, some pictures below. The sky cleared after about 10:00 and the rest of the day has been hot.
Enough of the poetry.

A funny thing happened on the way to Santiago today...
As I stopped for breakfast in Ciraqui (as you do!) a Canadian or American woman came in and asked if she could have gâteau. The local chap at the bar was confused and asked her to explain. She repeated (louder and miming) that she wanted to eat gâteau for breakfast. Those of you who know some Spanish may see where this is going. Apparently the Spanish word for cat is gato. He pointed at the cat near the counter where the cakes etc were and she nodded excitedly. She was soon dispatched under many Spanish (or Basque) expletives.

 
There are many examples of graffiti which inform us that we are not in Spain but in the Basque Country. The people here are very patriotic to a region and culture (and language) that most of the world does not recognise or understand.

Various pictures below of my breakfast, some great vistas, a huge map of the world made of old car tyres in a field and my dodgy thumb which has started to go back to a healthier colour but now has no sense of touch.

As I sit typing this I can hear thunder rumbling off in the distance and a cuckoo calling, how bizarre is that?

Well, it is off to bed now. I have paid an extra 3 euros for a room to myself tonight so hope to get a good night's sleep without the nocturnal sounds and smells of other pilgrims. I am staying in a youth hostel that was built for housing Olympic athletes back whenever Spain held the event, around 1920 judging by the state of the building.
The low rolling thunder and tired body is better than any sleeping tablet, if only I could bottle it.

ps. Wendy; tomorrow is green bin day.

Nite nite all.

Day 4 - Cizur Menor to Puente la Reina - Tilting at windmills

Today I feel a bit like Don Quixote with his battle against the windmills; there are hundreds of them. OK they are a bit more hi-tech than his but they keep on appearing over the horizon.
I walked for about an hour and a half before finding breakfast. A simple meal of cafe con leche and choc au pain (whatever that is in Spanish; you know, the yummy croissant that is full of chocolate)

Another hour and I am ascending to the top of the last of the Pyrenees mountains. There is a magnificent flat iron sculpture of medieval pilgrims with heads bent into the wind. (Photo below)....
As I stop for a long draught of water after the ascent I meet again with Paul and Gina. (We have lost the German at last; but not for ever I am sure)
A bit later on Paul and I took a longer detour to visit the 12th century church at Eunate; supposedly one of the jewels of the Camino. It was a very old and significant place of worship but I am not sure if it was worth the extra miles. Gina takes the short route as she is still suffering.
Some great scenery with mountains in the background and wonderful fields and flowers; the poppies here are abundant and blood red.

 
A brief conversation with another pelegrino (pilgrim) yesterday:
Him - "what time is it?"
Me - "Why?"
Him - "Good point!"

After about 23 kms we reach Puente la Reina (the Queen's Bridge) the first thing I notice is a 100 ft high tower with a massive nest on top with a pair of storks. There is another nest on the main church. A special Sunday service is just finishing and everyone is parading in their finery. The young girls on their confirmation dresses like miniature brides. The church has a strong smell of incense but they start closing the doors just after we arrive. Maybe they can detect the smell of pilgrim over the incense!
The hostel tonight is on top of a hill ; as usual; and we struggle up it with the promise of a swimming pool. On arrival the advertised pool has no water; damn. We have to settle for a beer instead. This single beer at the end of a hot, tiring day is magical. It always tastes better in the sun when you still have the dust and sweat on your brow.
We decide to walk back down the hill to the town for the evening meal. A good meal but it means another climb to return and get a good night's sleep.

Breaking news!

Thank you all for your concern on my bowels. No more fear about "touching cloth" or the "tortoise is poking his head out"
Congratulations are in order on the birth of a healthy, bouncing 8 pounder. The father is doing well.
I missed my update yesterday so will publish days 4 and 5 soon. Have just finished walking for the day so off for a shower, wash clothes etc.

Day 3 - getting in the groove.

An early start again; just after 0630. Again I walked alone for the first couple of hours which is a great way to start the day. Until I had a nasty fall when I slipped on some loose gravel on a steep downward slope. Somehow I then got my leg tangled in my walking pole and went flying. I almost sh@t myself (blog followers may note that this would be a good thing! still no movement on that topic so far.)
Fortunately it was only blood that went everywhere! I have a grazed knee and a bad cut on my thumb - which is going a bit black.
Otherwise a great day. I met with Dutch Paul and Norwegian Gina at a lovely little café in the mountains by a waterfall. Café con leche and croissant for breakfast; excellent. I am still the only English person I have met which is a surprise but not a problem as most speak English as the common Camino language.
Some more great scenery; very mixed again. Forests of varied types, wheat fields, great rock formations and rivers running alongside us most if the time. Where we cross the rivers the bridges are centuries old. We made good speed today as we are getting fitter and the hills are flattening out a bit. (see elevation profiles for the first three days below) have not worked out how to change the order that photos are displayed so they are a bit random at present.
Just before Pamplona we met up with Stefan from Germany. He is a bit intense and does not stop talking and trying to organise us. For some reason he does not carry any water, just a mug. This means he has to keep cadging off us when he gets thirsty. When I suggested he should get a water bottle he said that it is too heavy to carry!
Paul mentioned that there is often a lot of traffic noise; I told him to listen to the birds instead and this phrase is now being passed around.
We got to Pamplona early and were all a bit shocked how noisy and busy a city was. We saw a few of the sights, stopped for a snack in a park and all decided that we wanted a quiet night so walked on to Cesar Menor about 7kms further. Another good private albergue run by a family. Stefan decided he would also like some peace and quiet so followed us! He wants to join our "family" but I can't see it working. Fortunately he is thick skinned (and thick).
My feet, hips etc are all working great now and the same with Paul so we want to stop at the same time and places, which is good. Gina has struggled today but hopes to keep up with us. Many others have bad sprains and blisters. We have heard of another two ambulance jobs today so will try not to be overconfident.
The German is now organising cooking for everyone even though most of us have already decided the restaurant where we will eat. Germany is also playing football tonight so fingers crossed!
Here are some photos from today.

Day 2 - A more relaxing day

Roncesvalles to Zubiri (22 km)
Another great pilgrim meal last night; pasta and salad to start followed by whole trout and patatas fritas (chips) Washed down with all the red wine you want. A nice yoghurt and fruit for desert , (all for 8 euros)
Had a good nights sleep (best for a long time) Up at 0600 and out the door by 0640, a chilly morning with light rain in the air. I walked alone for most of the day and am relaxing nicely after the trepidation of yesterday has worn off.
Much more gentle hills today and great walks through pine forest and lush green fields with cream coloured cows and many coloured flowers and birds. Not all is wonderful though; I have been in three countries in the last three days and I haven't had a crap yet! About 7km before Zubiri (where I am staying tonight) I met up with Eddie from South Africa again (we started together). Apparently he had a really bad night's sleep and hasn't been off the bog much since yesterday; I should be glad with my plight. Anyway, Eddie and I marched along together at a cracking pace, me happy to be walking in the Spanish air and mountains and him wondering whether he would make it to town without disappearing behind the next tree!
We both made it into Zubiri as the church bells rang for one o'clock Eddie rushed off somewhere and I met with Paul from Amsterdam who I met yesterday. After consulting my guide book we booked into the Zaldiko Hostel which is small, clean and friendly. We were forced to have a beer (cannot remember by whom) and after showering and changing we gave our washing to the owner who washes and tumble dries it for us. As I lie on my bunk typing up this blog someone calls out "Hello Ian, fancy seeing you here!" It is Gina from Norway who walked over the Pyrenees with me yesterday. It is amazing that with all this space you keep seeing the same faces. I also keep meeting a group of four young Koreans who do not stop talking and photograph everything that moves (and most things that don't.)

I have just booked a table for our Pilgrims Meal tonight in a lively bar round the corner. Fortunately my Dutch and Norwegian is coming along nicely.

 
Here are a few photos from today.
Tomorrow is on to Pamplona (where they do the bull runs)

Still alive after the first day

Wow, that was an experience! Fantastic accommodation last night. First we had a great three course meal and wine then a glass of port. Next was a professional musician and singer who is walking the camino and has brought her ukelele along for the ride. All for 20 euros including a bed for the night, breakfast and a substantial packed lunch for today. Also thrown in was free entry to the international Pyrenees snoring event of 2012. I did not take part but was one of the judges.

I started walking about 7am. It was downhill for the first 200 metres and then in the direction of up for about 23 kilometres. Then almost vertically down for the last 9 kms.

It started very warm and sunny and then the wind picked up near the top to around 60 mph (blowing into our faces of course) then we had some rain for about 45 mins but luckily the predicted thunderstorm passed behind us and stayed in France as we entered Spain.
The views are absolutely amazing. I will have to copy some photos from the camera later as only took a few from the iPhone.
Saw a dead sheep all bloated in the sun that was hit by a car this morning. Also someone dislocated a knee and had to be rescued and an elderly Irish woman fell in a hole and had to be recovered by taxi; have just seen her in the bar nursing a very large brandy. I made it over without any major events but will need a new left hip tomorrow.
The converted monastery we are in tonight is fantastic (10 euro), I have just booked my Pilgrims meal for 8 euro.
Enough for now as a beer awaits.
Ian (knackered but happy) Vincent-Spall.

Packed and ready to go!

My backpack is now sorted (packed and repacked about 7 times)
All travel arrangements checked, weather forecasts investigated and spare pair of pants purchased!
Wendy has just cut off all my hair to reduce weight and make me go faster.

The train leaves Havant station at 07:06 on Wednesday morning to get me to Stansted for 12:15 flight to Biarritz. An overnight stay in St Jean Pied de Port and then an early start on Thursday morning over the Pyrenees into Spain.
Getting a bit excited now.
Feel free to leave comments below, choose either of the bottom two profiles.

My backpack with scallop shell and hat

Planning for my Camino

In June I am going on a bit of a walk....
I will fly down to Biarritz in the South of France and then on to St Jean Pied de Port. After a good night's sleep I will get up early and start my Camino....
The first day is to cross the Pyrenees into Spain and stay the night in Roncesvalles.
The next day is similar; get up early, walk, eat, sleep...... and repeat until I arrive in Santiago de Compostela.